Whether you’re packing your bike for travel, upgrading pedals, or doing basic maintenance, knowing how to remove bike pedals properly saves time, money, and frustration.
To remove bike pedals, stabilize the bike, set the crank horizontal, and use a pedal wrench or Allen key. Turn the right pedal counterclockwise and the left pedal clockwise, always loosening toward the back wheel. Apply steady force and remove fully by hand.
In this step-by-step guide, I’ll walk you through exactly what to do, what tools you need, and the small details that make all the difference.
An Easy Method to Remove Bike Pedals
Removing bike pedals is easier than it looks once you know the right direction to turn and the tools to use.
1. Before You Start: 60-Second Safety Check
Before you touch a wrench, make sure your bike is stable. Set it on flat ground, lean it against a wall, or use a bike stand if you have one. A wobbly bike is how you end up with a bruised shin or a busted knuckle. Next, protect your hands.
Wear gloves if you can, or at least wrap a rag around the wrench for grip. Finally, go slow at first. If you force it, you can strip threads or round the bolt.
2. Tools You’ll Need (Plus a Few Nice-to-Haves)
Most bike pedals come off with either a 15mm pedal wrench or an Allen key (usually 6mm or 8mm) that fits into the back of the pedal spindle. If you’re not sure which one you need, check the inside of the crank area for a hex slot.
Got a stubborn pedal? A little penetrating oil can be a lifesaver. Keep a rag handy to wipe off dirt and oil, and throw on gloves to save your hands. When you put pedals back on, use a dab of grease or anti-seize so they don’t seize up again.
A torque wrench is optional, but nice if you like doing things by the book
3. Know This First: Right Pedal vs Left Pedal Threads
Here’s the big gotcha: the pedals don’t loosen the same way. Your right pedal, the drive side with the chain, uses a normal thread. Lefty loosey works there. The left pedal, on the non drive side, is reverse threaded, so it loosens the opposite way.
This is on purpose, so pedals don’t unscrew while you ride. To spot them fast, look for tiny “R” and “L” stamps on the spindle or end cap. No markings? Remember: both pedals loosen by turning your wrench toward the back wheel.
If it resists, stop and recheck before forcing it. You’ll save your threads.
4. Step-By-Step: Remove Bike Pedals
Step 1: Put the Crank in the Best Position for Leverage
Before you try to loosen anything, crank position matters more than you think. Set the crank arm so it’s roughly horizontal and pointing toward the front wheel. This gives you maximum leverage and better control.
If the crank is pointing down, you’re more likely to slip. If it’s pointing up, you’ll fight gravity the whole time. Horizontal is the sweet spot.
Here’s a small but important tip. Keep the opposite crank arm out of shin range. I’ve learned this the hard way. When a tight pedal suddenly breaks free, your hand can fly forward and your shin is usually right there waiting.
Rotate the other crank arm out of the way, or step slightly to the side. It takes two seconds and can save you a painful bruise. Also make sure your wrench or Allen key is fully seated before you apply force. Half seated tools slip fast.
Step 2: Loosen the Pedal (The Correct Direction)
This is where most people mess up. The right pedal, which is on the same side as the chain, loosens like a normal bolt. Turn it counterclockwise to loosen it. If you’re standing on the right side of the bike, that usually means pushing the wrench downward toward the back wheel.
The left pedal is different. It has reverse threads. That means you loosen it by turning clockwise. Yes, it feels wrong the first time. If you’re on the left side of the bike, you’ll also be pushing the wrench toward the back wheel.
That’s the easiest rule to remember. No matter which side you’re on, you always turn the wrench toward the rear of the bike to loosen the pedal.
Apply steady pressure instead of jerky movements. If it doesn’t move right away, stop and double check the direction. Forcing it the wrong way is how threads get stripped or bolts get rounded. Once it breaks loose, you’ll feel it clearly.
Step 3: Remove the Pedal Completely
After the pedal cracks loose, things get easy. You can usually spin it out the rest of the way by hand. Keep one hand under the pedal as you unthread it so it doesn’t drop and chip your frame or toes.
Some pedals have a thin washer or spacer between the pedal and crank. Don’t lose it. Set it aside with the pedal so it goes back on the same side later.
Once the first pedal is off, rotate the bike or walk around to the other side and repeat the process. Reset the crank position, check your direction, and loosen it toward the back wheel again. Take a quick look at the pedal threads once they’re off.
If they look dry or dirty, wipe them clean. You’re done. At this point, your pedals are off and your bike is ready for travel, storage, or an upgrade.
5. Method A: Remove Pedals With a Pedal Wrench
A pedal wrench is the classic tool for the job, and if you have one, this method is simple and reliable. Slide the 15mm opening of the wrench onto the flat section of the pedal spindle, right where it meets the crank arm.
Make sure it’s fully seated. If it’s only halfway on, it can slip and round the edges fast. Next, hold the opposite crank arm steady with your free hand. This keeps the bike from rotating and gives you more control when you apply pressure.
Position the wrench so you can push it toward the back of the bike. That’s your loosening direction on both sides. For extra leverage, keep the wrench as horizontal as possible and use your body weight instead of just arm strength.
If it’s really tight, a longer pedal wrench helps, or you can carefully slip a pipe over the handle for more leverage. Just go slow and steady.
6. Method B: Remove Pedals With an Allen Key (Hex Key)
Some pedals don’t have wrench flats at all. Instead, they use an Allen key that fits into the back of the pedal spindle, right behind the crank arm. Flip the bike around or crouch down and look at the inside of the crank.
You’ll usually see a 6mm or 8mm hex fitting. Make sure you use the correct size. If it feels loose, stop and switch keys. To brace the bike, stand over the frame with one foot on the ground and the other lightly against the rear wheel.
This keeps the bike from rolling while you apply pressure. Set the crank arm horizontal and position the Allen key so you can push it toward the back of the bike. To avoid rounding the bolt, fully insert the Allen key before turning. Don’t rush this step.
Press the key firmly into the fitting as you apply force, and use smooth, steady pressure instead of quick jerks. If the bolt feels stuck, add a drop of penetrating oil and wait a few minutes. Patience here saves stripped bolts and a lot of frustration later.
7. Pedal Won’t Budge? Here’s How to Get It Off Without Breaking Stuff
If your pedal refuses to move, don’t panic. This is common, especially on bikes that haven’t had the pedals removed in years. First, grab some penetrating oil and apply it right where the pedal threads into the crank.
Don’t just spray and immediately wrench on it. Let the oil soak in for at least 10 to 15 minutes. If the pedal is really seized, waiting an hour or even overnight can make a huge difference. Patience here often saves the day.
If the Pedal is More Stubborn Than You Thought
If it still won’t budge, you need more leverage, not more aggression. Reposition your wrench or Allen key so it’s perfectly horizontal. This lets you use your body weight instead of pure arm strength. Step down slowly and steadily rather than yanking.
If you’re using a pedal wrench, a longer handle helps. If not, you can carefully slide a pipe over the handle to extend it. Just be controlled. Too much force too fast can crack a crank arm.
Another trick that works surprisingly well is a rubber mallet. With the wrench fully seated, give the end of the wrench a few firm taps in the loosening direction. The shock can help break the threads free without constant pressure.
Avoid Metal Hammers and Flames
Avoid metal hammers here. They’re more likely to damage tools or parts. Heat can also help, but it’s risky. Gentle heat from a hair dryer can expand the crank slightly and loosen things up. Avoid open flames or high heat.
You don’t want to weaken the metal or damage seals and paint. If none of this works, stop. Forcing it further can destroy the crank threads, and that’s an expensive mistake. This is the point where a bike shop earns its money.
They have stronger tools and experience, and it usually takes them just a few minutes to fix what could turn into a big headache at home.
Common Pedal Removal Questions
1. Which way do I turn to loosen each pedal?
The right pedal, which is on the chain side of the bike, loosens the normal way. Turn it counterclockwise. The left pedal is reverse threaded, so it loosens by turning clockwise.
If you ever feel confused, use this memory trick: turn your wrench toward the back wheel to loosen either pedal. It works on both sides and keeps you from forcing things the wrong way.
2. Do I need to remove the crank?
No, in almost all cases you do not need to remove the crank. Bike pedals are designed to come off while the crank stays on the bike. As long as you can position the crank arm correctly and get good leverage with your tool, the crank can stay right where it is.
3. What if I stripped the threads?
If the threads are lightly damaged, they can sometimes be cleaned up with a thread chaser or tap. Wipe them down and inspect them closely before reinstalling anything. If the damage is more serious, a bike shop can install a thread insert to save the crank.
This is usually cheaper than replacing the entire crank.
4. Why are pedals reverse threaded on one side?
Pedals are reverse threaded on the left side to keep them from loosening while you ride. Pedaling forces naturally try to unscrew pedals, and opposite threads counteract that movement. It’s a simple design choice that prevents a lot of problems over time.